[Walkin de Dogs and Hairpin Turns - India]

It was just over 3 weeks and I was little sad to leave Mcleoud Ganj. I really love being in the mountains and the cool climate, snuggling under a blanket at night, it just appealed to me.

Once I got over another bout of food poisoning (3rd time in 6 months) I took to walking with a regular group of intriguing travellers. One day in particular 6 of us walked to a set of waterfalls. We had started with 2 dogs who voluntarily wanted to go walkies with us from the town. By 9am we had stopped at a small chai shop, because, well, thats what you do around here.. Our group was particularly dog loving and more street dogs quickly appeared from the wood work. Without so much as "com'on, walkies" we had 11 dogs follow us the entire day.

This in itself was an entertainment. Local Indians would stop and stare and goat shepherds got nervous as we approached. Quite a few times we had to ward the dogs away from calves and other animals as they started acting mischievously. In all they were well behaved and enjoyed our company and the occasional scratch behind the ear. Although the cheeky devils would push past you on a narrow trail and then suddenly stop in front and block the path. Hello!

As we got nearer 3000m the air was cool, clear and quiet. It felt wonderful to get away from it all and be alone in nature, with nature. (with 11 dogs offcourse)

One small note about bus travel. Dont. Even though I had a really comfortable, air-conditioned Volvo bus where, god bless, my knees didnt even bench press the seat in front of me... I was still traumatised. I wont even mention the silly Bollywood film they played...

They drive so flippin fast and jerky. And its a night bus, careering through hairpin turns as we leave the Himalayas to get back onto the plains. Thus there is no sense of horizon making the experience feel more like a dreadful theme park ride instead of a normal, sit back and relax bus trip.

A lady in the aisle next to me vomited twice and it was all I could do, praying to every known deity, to keep my stomach contents in their respectful place. (Although in June 2004 I did heave up 5 times on a bus ride) Two and half hours later I was exhausted, nauseous but feeling safer as we reached the plains. God damn ghastly trip, every bloody time.

Today Deli has warmly greeted me (39 degrees) but I bid her quickly farewell as I fly to Kathmandu, Nepal, tomorrow.

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